Climbing the Volcano and other lazy stories…

Nicaragua welcomed me with open arms! After 3 busses, 2 taxis, and a ferry ride over to Ometepe Island in Lake Nicaragua I landed in the world’s 10th largest lake and home to the only sweet water sharks. Nice!

It was quite different here than Panama and Costa Rica. Pigs, chickens, and dogs roamed freely across the island scurrying from house to house.

Two volcanoes comprise the center of the island, one is named Concepcion and the other Maderas. I stayed by the inactive Maderas because I had heard from friends that it was worthy of a climb and a fun place to hang out for a few days.

The projected climb up and down the Volcan Maderas is 5 to 7 hours depending on if you choose to descend into the crater where a rainwater lake formed. This is no easy climb. Unfortunately two climbers died almost three years ago on this Volcano because they went up without a guide even though it’s highly advised not to do this. Now there is a city law that prohibits guideless hikes. I later found out these two hikers stayed at the same hostel I stayed at, so I could not help but think of them as I began my own climb (with guide) up the mountain.

There were six of us: two American girls, my Canadian friend Jon, and a friendly Dutch couple. We began the walk to the volcano briskly and with uncertainty how this hike would treat us. It was a very sunny day and already 30 minutes into the hike we all were sweating. The two guides that were with us were on a mission to get us up that volcano and down before sunset, so they were fast walkers. They, in fact, never seemed tired and every break that we did get they never sat down. Incredible! The walk went on and on, and the higher we ascended the more interesting it became. Howler monkeys were screaming in the not too far distance, and we even saw some monkeys at one point hanging in the tree tops.

Some kilometers later the Volcan Maderas was not so kind to us. She increased her incline fairly steeply and required us all to grab trees and branches to continue on. We were all slipping and falling and extremely dirty by this point. I think it was at this point in the hike that I had to remind myself that this was a mental challenge and not a physical one and that I would regret it if I was the only one to wuss out of the hike.

Many perspiration drops later we made it to the top of the Volcan! How glorious! We were lucky too because normally it’s very cloudy from the top and a good glimpse down into the crater is far and few in between. Not on this day, because we could see straight down, and we did. Not only did we see straight down, but four of us (me included) went on to climb down into the crater. If I had thought that the portion leading to the top was hard, then I was surely mistaken. All of a sudden the Volcano turned into a swamp and we were hopping from tree branches to tree branches trying to avoid getting sucked into a mud abyss. After escaping the swamp, I perilously avoided by a few steps tumbling down the crater on some slick rocks. But success was to be had, and we finally made it to the bottom of the crater! Ahh….

After a short rest we had to climb down. And again, if I had thought that I had just finished the hardest part of the climb, I was surely mistaken! Who knew that the finish is sometimes harder than the start? After 5 to 6 hours of walking already, my body was pleading with me to stop but we had to climb all the way down. By this point in time, all of us were tripping and falling over little rocks and roots not because we didn’t see them, but because we were so exhausted.

After a total of 18 kilometers and 9 hours of walking (what makes up a standard work day) we stumbled back into the property of the hostel. I don’t think I’ve ever been as tired and smelly in my entire existence, but now that I’ve had several days to recover from such a hike I would say it was worth it-- blisters, corns, bruises and all!

From one side of the Mountain to the other

My first big trip out of Panama City, I decided to head North… or West… or whatever direction it is to the Chiriqui Highlands from Panama.

I had spent over two months in the bustling, large capitol of Panama. This capitol is growing rapidly; skyscrapers and condominiums are sprouting like weeds. Expats emigrate here to avoid taxes and make their retirement dream homes come true, and Peace Corp. volunteers use the trip to the big city to get all their vices out of their system. You name it, Panama City just about has it (except for Bikram yoga… still upset about that). I suppose this is why Panama is often referred to as the Hong Kong of Central America or another Miami. I think it’s just Panama, a city in its own rite.

Having said all this, I was yearning for a little r&r, a little nature, a little something more remote and out of the way. I soon found myself in the beautiful mountain country side of Cerro Punta. The trip alone was an experience. I ended up on the wrong bus after even asking the bus attendee if it would carry me to Cerro Punta. He said yes, I suppose not listening, and I was carried to the border of Costa Rica instead. Several hours later I finally made it to my desired destination – Cerro Punta. I’m glad I turned around, almost didn’t after the mix up.

My time in Cerro Punta was just what I needed! I spent the first night in a cabin by myself. All the luxuries and American chains (Dominos, Dunkin Donuts, McDonald’s etc) that existed in Panama City were totally absent in Guadalupe where I stayed. Not even a bank or a supermercado! Instead there were rows and rows of fincas, Ngobe Indians living in the fertile mountainside, and the freshest air I’ve probably ever breathed. I spent my time hiking in the mountain and biking. Ahhh… I already miss that place!

Not quite ready to leave the mountain totally yet, I headed for the other side to a town called Boquete, which I’ve heard from other travelers is named one of the top 5 places to retire in the world. I immediately thought that my ability to sew, knit, and appreciation for gin and tonics would help me fit in with the older folk. However, I haven’t found their hangout yet. There are indeed a lot more English speakers here; there were practically none in the tiny village in Cerro Punta. And there are several banks here. I can see why one would want to retire here. It’s a happy little mountain town, but just between you and me I would opt for retirement in Cerro Punta instead and grow cabbage or something.

What’s great about Boquete and probably the sole reason I came here is that it is famous for its coffee plantations. Some of Panama’s best coffee is grown here, as well as oranges. Because of that, there are coffee shops just about every 10 feet. Pretty cool for a coffee addicted girl like myself. In my city, the great city of Austin there are tons of coffee houses and generally I can find nothing to rival. them on my travels. Boquete has some cool places to hang out and enjoy a good cup of joe.

I took a coffee tour of the Ruiz plantation and learned a TON of information about coffee that I never knew. In fact, I normally don’t think about the long journey that coffee beans take from the plant to the cup and what a great amount of energy, care, and time is needed for a good cup of coffee. Of the many facts I learned, definitely the most useful piece of information was about how coffee plantations test the beans at the beginning of the process.

Coffee beans come from fruit. When the fruit is red, that means they are ready for picking. However these fruits are susceptible to damage from bugs and mold. A desirable cup of coffee would not be made up of these damaged beans, so in order to separate the good beans from the bad Café Ruiz dunks the fruits in water. The good ones sink, but the damaged ones float because there is less weight with the insect damage and whatnot. These damaged ones are called floaters. (Sounds like a joke, but I’m not kidding.) So what happens to the floater beans? Good question. I wondered the same things as well. The floater beans go through the same process as the good ones, being seeded, washed, roasted, rested, and bagged. Café Ruiz does not waste anything when it comes to their plantation which is great! They supply beans for Starbucks, Illy, Maxwell, and as you may have guessed by now… Nescafe and Folgers. The latter two companies are the sole purchasers for floater beans from Café Ruiz. Gross! So now that you know your coffee is damaged as well as protein enriched you may think twice when grabbing a cheap cup of coffee.

Seems you really do pay for what you get even in the world of coffee.

Next up Costa Rica!

Echo de menos de la ciudad de Panama!

Phew! What a summer it has been, and already classes have come to a close. No more teaching basic English in the lively and colorful neighborhood of San Felipe. No more 25 cent snow cones shaved by hand from the street vendor, and no more mysterious yelling from the man down the street who is selling something… I am definitely going to miss it-- the good and the bad, and especially all of my students.

Last Thursday Tim and I held a little end of class celebration for the students on the balcony of our hostel. We presented them with diplomas, and a few lucky students went home with their very own laptops! These were donated to us by various friends from the states, and the students could not believe it. The look of shock and amazement on their faces alone was worth the entire trip here.

Little Carlos at first asked Tim to write a note to his mother saying it was his laptop so that his mother wouldn’t think he stole it. Anastacio was boisterous and loud, overjoyed and excited about his new acquisition. Ricardo quietly but proudly modeled his laptop bag for us, and said “thank you very much”.

The fiestasita which originally was planned for 2 hours turned into a 6 hour affair, but it was great hanging out with the students one last time. They asked each of us teachers our plans for the future. Tim has decided to stay in Panama and open up a business with some new Panamanian friends. Knowing them there is no doubt it will be successful and a worthwhile adventure. In his spare time he will continue to tutor the residents of Casco Viejo. I explained to the students, “Me gusta Panama muchissimo. No quiero que ir, pero tengo que ir, chicos. Voy a viajer en Central America y despues regraso a mi otro trabajo en Estados Unidos.” I enjoyed their replies, not if I was coming back, but an adamant WHEN are you coming back, maestra?

On my last day in the barrio, I took my last lap around the block soaking up the views of the downtown skyline, the Pacific Ocean, the brightly colored Kuna Indians, and the various neighborhood locals. What I will remember forever about this celebratory lap around Casco Viejo is the encounter I had with Lobo, the self proclaimed bully of the neighborhood. He’s a big guy, stern, strong a bit scary looking who commands lots of respect from his neighbors. As is customary he said “hola maestra.” I said hello in reply. Normally this is the extent of our dialogue, but today was different. When I told him I was leaving soon, he said in Spanish that he wanted me to know that he has lots of respect for me, and that he wants me to one day teach him English as well. And that was the best souvenir of my time in Panama!

Being a teacher in this neighborhood is at times difficult, but the people here and around are very gracious for someone who spends their time teaching people who normally never get the type of attention and respect they deserve as human beings. Respect is admired greatly here, probably more than money. If you earn respect in Casco Viejo, then you’re golden. I too respect teachers much more now. It’s not an easy task to motivate others to learn, particularly when there is a lot going on at home, but everyone should be allowed a good education.

At the start of the AT program there were originally planned two 6-week back to back English courses. However, the second group of students are not ready for their English course just yet. Everything takes forever in Panama. So, now that I suddenly have all this time on my hands, I’ve decided to back pack my way to Guatemala City from Panama City.

I’ll write from the road to keep you all updated.

Nos vemos pronto!